Articles on this page:

Adoption is a great option - with forethought
Traveling with your pet
Protection and/or Attack Training a Dog

ADOPTION IS A GREAT OPTION - WITH FORETHOUGHT

Why would anyone adopted a "second hand" pet?  There are a number of reasons!

1.  By adopting an "older" animal, you avoid some of the problematic behaviors associated with owning a young animal.  For examples, click HERE!

2.  Adopting a "rescue" can be easier or more economical than purchasing a young purebred.  Locating responsible breeders for some of the purebreds is difficult, if not impossible, in some areas, and you certainly do NOT want to obtain an animal from an irresponsible breeder! Once located, the cost of the animal may be prohibitive.

3.  Adopting a "rescue" is an act of giving, kindness, and love.  It helps relieve the terrible burden on shelters, humane organizations (like ours), and on the various groups and individuals who rescue animals.  It provides a "needy" animal with a home.  Most importantly, it makes a statement about you, it says you CARE!

4.  Some owners of "adopted" animals believe adopted animals appreciate them more than animals that they raised. Although behaviorists would probably say this belief  is unfounded, for whatever reason, the bond between a rescue and its owner may become especially strong.

5.  Research shows that, generally speaking, nothing is "wrong" with most rescues except that their owners  did not understand their animals' most basic behaviors and needs and/or had some lifestyle change that made keeping the animal "inconvenient."  Of the animals available for adoption, approximately 60% are turned in by their owners and 40% are picked up as strays.  Few, if any, of these animals are ever reclaimed.  It is important to understand that most rescues adjust quickly and easily in new homes, however, it is important to understand that occasionally a rescue may require a little extra patience, understanding, and time on your part to adjust.      

6.  Most importantly, if you adopt an adult animal with established behaviors from a responsible rescue organization chances are you "get what you see."  Contrary to popular opinion,  bringing a young animal (like a puppy) into the home can be problematic for a number of reasons.  For instance, bringing in an adult dog known to like children, or other animals, can be a better choice than a young animal.  Children can hurt an young animal unintentionally and set the stage for problems as the pet grows into an adult capable of "defending" itself against what it has learned to consider a potential "threat."  

Another example of when an older animal might work better for someone is in the case of a "working" owner.  Puppies can hold their "elimination" needs for approximately one hour per month of age up to about 8 months.  That means, if a puppy is two months old, it needs to go out every two hours.  If you work 8 hours a day, it is easy to see that work may be your "enemy" when trying to housebreak a young animal.

What do you need to know about adopting a rescue?

1.  The decision to obtain any animal should be thought through very carefully.  ("Act in haste - repent at leisure.")  Every aspect of ownership should be investigated and considered.  The fact an animal is a "rescue" should not lessen the importance of your decision in any way.  You should consider this decision just as carefully as you would if " purchasing" a purebred animal.  Rescues have already lost one home, possibly more.  It is critically important that they find a "forever" home this time around!

2.  Do NOT take the first animal you see or feel sorry for.  Thousands of animals are probably available in your area over the course of a year. Be patient!  Given time, you can find the pet for you!

3.  While information from an animal's rescuer can be important to your decision to adopt, do not let self-styled pet "match-makers" dictate the type of pet you should get.  Matching a pet to an owner's lifestyle and expectations help guarantee that a match will be successful for you and the pet.

4.  Potential owners need to be prepared to give an animal time to adjust to its new surroundings and expectations of it.  A few "elimination" accidents are common with newly adopted animals as the animal may never have been housebroken, or may have "lost" all or part of its housebreaking as a result of being kept at a shelter. Remember, most problem behaviors, if there are any, can usually be easily resolved.

Many RAOT members own rescues and are very happy with them.  We encourage you to think seriously about your adoption option!  THANKS!

Take me back to the "Adoption Application" page.

Take me back to the "Rescue" page.

 

 

 

WORLD TRAVELER OR COUCH POTATO - YOUR PET'S VACATION SHOULD BE FUN TOO!

So you want to travel with your pet? One of the first things you need to do is to insure your pet is fit to travel. Schedule a complete veterinary check-up before the trip, as unanticipated pet health problems could ruin your vacation. Take along a copy of your pet's medical records in the event you need them. Some travel arrangements, such as air travel or travel abroad, REQUIRE that a pet have a certificate of health. Work with your veterinarian to determine whether or not your pet is safe under your planned travel arrangements. Some animals may have physical characteristics that inhibit breathing or have age or other health problems which increase their risk.

Another consideration before trip time is your pet's behavior. Some behaviors are undesirable when traveling with an animal. Many pets--such as fearful or shy animals, and some animals with disabilities--do not adapt well changes in  their environment. An aggressive animal may become stressed and more reactive than normal. Hyperactive animals may distract drivers. Is your pet well-behaved? Does it adapt quickly and easily to new circumstances including unfamiliar animals or people? How does it react negatively or positively to strange places, sounds, or smells? Something as simple as "car-sickness" in town can make longer trips a nightmare. If your pet has behavior problems, you may want to reconsider including the pet in your travel plans.

Before just picking up and leaving with Fluffy or Fido, you should plan your accommodations. Many national hotel chains--including Holiday Inn, Ramada, Red Roof Inn, and Marriott, accept pets - but NOT always. Privately owned hotels also vary in their pet policies. Some hotels limit the size or number of pets, some only make a certain number of rooms available to people traveling with pets, and some charge extra. Call the hotel and talk personally to the staff to insure there is no misunderstanding concerning your pet's accommodations. Be sure to get the name of the person you spoke with. Few things are more frustrating than traveling all day, arriving at a hotel, and then finding out you were misinformed about their pet policy.

Public campgrounds are another option for pet travelers; however, increasingly campgrounds either forbid pets or place restrictions and conditions on the animals' presence. Again, call ahead to find out if animals are allowed, under what conditions, and be sure to get the name of your contact.

What will you need to travel with a pet? The basics are:

SAMPLE NOTIFICATION LETTER:  

 IN CASE OF EMERGENCY:  Please notify my (designate a family member or friend, including their relationship to you, giving their full name, address, and telephone number including area code), that I have (name animals you own) that may, if they are not with me, be home alone.

If I am incapacitated, please phone the above person or (designate another trusted individual, including their relationship to you, full name, address, and telephone number including area code).  If my (name pets with you, giving names, species, breeds, and descriptions) are with me, all expenses for their care will be guaranteed by my emergency contacts (make sure you cover this with them prior to designating them for this responsibility.)  If my (name animals) are injured, they are to be taken to the nearest reputable veterinarian, NOT to the Humane Society.

I prefer that my own veterinarian, Dr. (full name), at (address and phone number including area code) be notified regarding decisions on my (name animals) care and treatment.  If any of my animals are injured beyond absolutely all hope of recovery, that animal may be humanely euthanized.

The welfare of my animals is my primary consideration.

(Insert your name, address, and phone number including area code and the date.)

 

FOOD AND WATER: One water bowl and one food bowl. A clean plastic gallon jug makes a great container for fresh drinking water. Your pet will be under some stress when traveling, no matter how well you prepare, and will probably have an increased need for water.  Be aware that pets, like us, can suffer stomach upset from changes in their drinking water. Pack enough food for the entire trip. The packed food should reflect your pet's needs. If you use canned food, be sure to pack a can opener and spoon. Don't forget--treats and toys are familiar and comforting items and your pet will appreciate them more than ever when traveling.

LEASH: NEVER take your pet out without a leash when traveling. Your pet is in unfamiliar territory and could easily become lost. Take an extra leash in case one gets destroyed or misplaced.

IDENTIFICATION: Your pet should have a license and current ID tag. The ID tag should have your number and at least one additional number on it--remember to include area codes! The ID tag should be worn on a collar or harness AT ALL TIMES. This insures that, should your pet become LOST, whoever finds it will have someone to contact. While an ID tag provides a readily visible means of identification, it is not considered a positive means of identification and can be easily removed. Micro-chipping insures a positive, permanent identification. Not all shelters scan for microchips. So, even if your pet is "chipped," your pet still needs an ID tag!  Also, should your pet get lost, it helps to have good, clear pictures for identification and for making flyers readily available. Take several shots--one from the front, both sides, rear, and a facial close-up, and a close shot of any special identifying feature, like an odd-shaped marking or scar.

FIRST AID KIT: Take along any regular medication that your pet requires. Some stores sell ready-made pet first aid kits, but remember to supplement these kits with whatever your veterinarian recommends for common problems, such as diarrhea, motion-sickness, or anxiety.  Flea and tick spray, and tweezers for pulling ticks, may be needed, especially for those going camping or hiking.

HEALTH RECORDS: You should have a recent pet health certificate, including proof of rabies and other vaccinations, with you at all times when traveling.

CRATE: A crate allows your pet to travel safely and allows you leave your pet alone in a room while you go out, for whatever reason. A crate or safety harness is a necessity for any pet that is hyperactive.

MISCELLANEOUS: Grooming supplies such as combs and brushes may come in handy, Paper towels and poop-scooping supplies are needed to clean up pet waste. Dispose of waste, and whatever you use to clean it up, properly. Don't forget towels for drying wet pets.

Although this may sound like quite a lot of luggage to carry around for a pet, it’s not much if properly planned for and packed. An easy way to carry pet supplies is to pack a small plastic laundry basket. Towels, food, bowls, leashes, first aid kits, etc., can all go in the basket. A three-ring binder, with a couple of clear plastic photo album pages and clear protector sheets, can be used to store health records, trip information, and recent pictures. The binder can also be placed in the basket.

When traveling by car, plan to stop at regular intervals for your pet to relieve itself, on leash, and get a drink of fresh water. Remember that the stress of traveling may cause your pet to have to relieve itself with greater frequency. Also, do not let your pet hang its head out of a vehicle window. Bugs and other flying debris can injure your pet's ears, eyes, nose, or face. If you plan to travel with your pet in the back of a truck, take special precautions, including crating the animal and securing the crate so that it will not slide around.  Dehydration can be a problem for an animal that is traveling for long distances exposed to heat and wind.

Do not leave your pet in a vehicle if the temperature is above 70 degrees or in direct sun, even with the windows open. Virtually everyone knows not to leave their pet in a car on a hot day but many do not know the danger can be just as serious on a warm day. Heat can build up to lethal levels in a vehicle within three to five MINUTES. This can happen even if the temperature outside the car is in the low 70's. Even with the windows down, a dog can heat stress or stroke, especially if excited. Symptoms of heatstroke include: heavy panting, glazed eyes, rapid pulse, dizziness or vomiting, and/or a deep red or purple tongue. If your dog shows any of these symptoms, find a veterinarian fast! Heatstroke, left untreated, almost always leads to brain damage or death of the pet.

Never leave your pet unattended. Unattended pets make a great target for pet nappers. Further, some well-meaning but misguided individuals will "rescue" any and every unattended animal they see, believing it to be homeless or neglected. If it is necessary to leave a pet for a few hours, find a veterinary clinic or kennel, or leave the pet in a crate in your hotel room. Pets that become excessively anxious or noisy if left alone or in a strange place, as stated in the beginning, may be happier if left at home.

FLYING WITH YOUR PET

Another way to make a long trip shorter for your pet is by flying. Although many animals fly each year without incident, a very small percentage do not make it. In most cases, a few simple precautions could have made the difference between an uneventful flight and disaster.

First, contact the airline and inquire about their shipping policies. Some airlines only allow animals to fly under certain conditions.

The airline will usually specify what type crates can be used. The crate should be large enough for the pet to stand and turn around. Make sure all the crate parts, including bolts and hinges, are secure. Make sure your pet is wearing ID, preferably secured on a breakaway, rather than a regular collar (which can become hung up in a crate). Label the crate clearly with home and destination information, including contact phone numbers.

Choose a direct flight if possible, and do not ship during heavy travel times. Choose flights when the temperature is neither too hot nor too cold at the starting point, along the way (connecting flights), or at the destination. Night flights are usually better in summer; day flights in winter. You should confirm that your pet has been loaded, has made connections, and is brought immediately to the pick up area.

Some airlines will allow passengers to carry-on a small dog, cat, or bird, if its crate will fit underneath an airplane seat. If you have a small pet, it is worth the effort to shop around for these airlines.

All airlines require flying pets to have a health certificate. This helps insure that the pet can handle the physical stresses of flight. If you believe that your pet may need sedation, contact a veterinarian and discuss this option.

WHAT IF YOU DECIDE AGAINST TRAVELING WITH YOUR PET?

If Fido or Fluffy is obviously going to be better off not making the trip with you, there are several options for his/her care.

BOARDING KENNELS. A boarding kennel should have secure runs, caring workers, and provisions for daily exercise. Ask to see where the pet will be kenneled. Cats should be kept separately from dogs. Ask if special accommodations can be made for food, medications, and medical treatment. Good kennels require proof of vaccinations, so do not leave your pet anywhere that does not require such proof. Most kennels, on request and for a fee, will bath and groom your pet prior to pick up.

VETERINARIANS: Your veterinarian may be the best option for animals whose health is dependent on regular or special medications. Veterinarians are probably also the best choice for very young or elderly pets.

Most pets are more comfortable in their own surroundings. Some people leave pets to fend for themselves and leave out food and water; however, unless you are ONLY leaving your pet OVERNIGHT, this is inadvisable. Should you leave your pet at home, some of your pet care options include:

FAMILY OR FRIENDS: Ask a friend or family member to "pet sit" by coming over once or twice daily, or actually staying at your home to give your pet food, water and any medications. The arrangement may be formal or informal. In either case, set out your expectations in writing, including guidelines in the case of emergencies, and go over your expectations with the person who will be pet sitting.

PROFESSIONAL PET SITTERS: If you are comfortable with strangers in your home, you may want to consider a professional pet sitter. There are two types--one comes by once or twice a day to check on your animals, and the other actually "house sits." In either case, if you do not know the person, you will want to make sure that the service is bonded. Many vet technicians pet-sit on the side, so ask your veterinarian if any staff members provide this service. Some vets keep a referral list of individuals who pet sit. Ask for references and check them. Ask every question you can imagine.

Whether using family, friends, or a pet-sitter, appoint someone you trust to make decisions for you about your pet in your absence. Inform your veterinarian that you will be out of town and who you have authorized to care for your pets in your absence. Be sure to leave a list of contacts in case of emergencies; friends, relatives, and veterinarians.

Traveling with a beloved pet can make any trip more enjoyable. An unplanned vacation with an uncooperative animal can make everyone miserable. To insure good times, plan for them. And your pet may even call the travel agent next time!

MORE INFO:

Cyber-Pet "Red Alert on Air Shipment of Pets:  http://www.cyberpet.com/cyberdog/articles/health/airship.htm

Dog Friendly Parks/Travel: http://www.dogfriendly.com

Dog Gone Newsletter: http://www.doggonefun.com/

Travel Pets: http://www.travelpets.com

Dog Parks: http://www.dogpark.com

Inn Seekers: http://www.innseekers.com/petsokay.htm

Traveling with your pet:  http://www.takeyourpet.com/

Pets are Welcome! http://www.petswelcome.com

The Independent Pet and Animal Transportation Association International: http://www.ipata.com

The U.S. Department of Agriculture site on transporting animals: http://www.aphis.usda.gov/ac

Traveling by Air with Your Pet: http://www.healthypet.com/Library/care-9.html

Air Travel - Avian style: http://www.birdsnways.com/wisdom/ww9eii.htm

AVMA on Traveling with your pet: http://www.avma.org/care4pets/safetrav.htm

Travel Tips: http://world.ase.com/spca/air.html

Pet Expo's Tips for Air Travel With Pets:  http://www.dogtrainingstore.com/pettravel.htm

Air Animal Pet Moving Services: http://www.airanimal.com/home.html

Air travel with your pet: http://www.familytravelforum.com/forum/pettravel/messages/8.html

Par Air Livestock Shipping and Quarantine Services: http://www.parair.co.uk/

 

PROTECTION AND/OR ATTACK TRAINING A DOG

We frequently get calls from individuals who want to "protection" or "attack" train their dogs. Because of the frequency of such calls, we felt it important to make the following information available for your consideration:

1.  Unless correctly done, this type of training can actually INHIBIT your dog’s natural tendency to protect you and your property. For instance, what if you are, for whatever reason, rendered incapable of giving a command to your dog to attack? An incorrectly trained attack dog might actually sit by while a criminal commits crimes because you were unable to give a command to the dog for whatever reason. A naturally protective dog, without training, would probably attack under the same circumstances.

2.  Trainers use "sleeves" or "body suits" to train protection/attack dogs. Although this is a standard practice, unless used correctly, you could end up with a dog that will "go for the sleeve" rather than the man. This means, when the need arises, that your dog may fail to respond appropriately because of confusion. When this happens, the dog, when ordered to attack, goes for the sleeve every time rather than the correct person. "Excuse me Mr. Criminal but would you mind putting on this sleeve so my dog will attack you?"

3.  A well-trained protection/attack dog exhibits CONTROLLED aggression at a specific target ONLY on command. If not done well, protection training can make a dog inappropriately aggressive, as it lowers a dog’s bite inhibitions. In other words, it can make a dog vicious, unpredictable, and potentially dangerous, if not deadly, to you or your family.

4.  Nationally, approximately 70% of the people starting obedience classes FAIL to complete them. Protection classes are costly. No one plans NOT to finish their classes, especially when they invest $500 and $1000 to begin with; however, SEVENTY PERCENT of people who begin obedience classes do not finish them. If you decide to pursue protection training for your dog, make some kind of payment arrangement with the trainer, preferably on a class by class basis, so you are not out a lot of money should you decide to stop.  Reputable trainers should agree to this.

5.  If a dog is trained to bite, and a bite occurs, your liability to the victim is potentially greater. And, even if a criminal act occurred which caused you to order a dog to attack, there are mitigating factors that could still result in you being found liable. A naturally protective dog, on the other hand, who has not bitten anyone previously is less of a liability, particularly if it bit in your defense.

6.  FOUR MILLION, SEVEN HUNDRED THOUSAND (4,700,000) people are bitten by dogs each year. Of those bitten, most are bitten by a dog known to them, usually the family dog. In addition, most of the victims are children. Only a very minute percentage of those bites are "justified" bites by protection/attack dogs. We repeat, 4.7 MILLION people are bitten EACH year.

7.  Finally, most homeowner insurance companies will not insure a protection trained dog for all the reasons stated above.

Unless you have some special needs beyond those of the average pet owner and/or unless you are willing to expend a large investment in time and money, you may want to reconsider protection or attack training your dog. Remember, a well-trained dog that is encouraged to bark at strangers should be sufficient for most owners’ needs, is less of a liability, and is safer to own.